Balloon Photography: How I Learned to Capture Explosive Moments and Floating Giants
Balloon Photography: How I Learned to Capture Explosive Moments and Floating Giants
Contents
Balloon photography changed how I see color, movement, and split-second timing.
I’ll admit something embarrassing upfront—my first attempt at photographing a popping balloon resulted in me getting soaked with water, my camera nearly knocked over, and absolutely zero usable shots.
Sound familiar?
Whether you’re trying to freeze a balloon mid-explosion, capture the magic of a hot air balloon festival at sunrise, or photograph party decorations that actually look impressive, balloon photography is trickier than it looks.
I’ve spent the last three years experimenting with all three styles, and I’m going to break down exactly what works (and what spectacularly doesn’t).
High-Speed Popping Balloon Photography: Controlled Chaos
This is where balloon photography gets seriously addictive.
There’s something weirdly satisfying about capturing a balloon at the exact microsecond it explodes into rubber confetti.
Getting Your Equipment Right
First things first—you need gear that won’t betray you at the critical moment.
Here’s my actual setup:
The essentials:
- A sturdy tripod (and I mean actually sturdy, not that wobbly one from 2009)
- A medium lens positioned at a safe distance from the splash zone
- Two flashes set at 45-degree angles on either side
- Plastic bags or protective covers for those flashes (trust me on this)
- A reliable sound trigger that’ll make or break this entire endeavor
My main flash sits at 1/32 power or lower.
The fill flash? Half that power at 1/64.
Why so low?
Because high-speed photography is about freezing motion, and flash duration matters more than flash power.
Camera settings I actually use:
- Aperture: f/8 to f/11 (gives you breathing room with focus)
- ISO: Keep it low, around 100-200
- Shutter speed: Doesn’t matter as much as you’d think in this setup
The room should be reasonably dark because we’re essentially painting with light here.
The Trigger Method That Actually Works
I wasted an entire weekend using the wrong trigger method.
Most people set their sound trigger to fire the camera.
Seems logical, right?
Wrong.
Camera lag time will ruin your shots every single time.
Here’s what I do instead:
- Set camera to bulb mode
- Manually open the shutter in the dark room
- Let the sound trigger fire the flashes AFTER the shutter’s already open
- The flash duration freezes the action, not the shutter speed
This eliminates timing delays completely.
Mind-blowing difference.
My Actual Workflow (Mistakes Included)
I tie the balloon to a light stand or rope.
Focus manually—autofocus will hunt and you’ll miss the moment.
Pop the balloon with a pin (I use a dart sometimes for dramatic effect).
The trigger captures the burst.
Real talk: You’ll miss your first 10-15 shots minimum.
Maybe 20.
I missed my first 30 because I’m apparently special.
You’re adjusting trigger sensitivity, distance, flash power, and about seventeen other variables.
Be patient with yourself.
Fill the balloons with different stuff for variety:
- Water (classic, very photogenic)
- Colored powder (messy but stunning)
- Confetti (lighter, floats beautifully)
- Paint (for the truly adventurous)
Each material behaves completely differently in mid-explosion.
Hot Air Balloon Photography: Chasing Giants at Dawn
If high-speed balloon photography is controlled chaos, hot air balloon photography is peaceful chaos.
You’re dealing with massive floating objects, crowds, changing light, and unpredictable launch times.
I photographed my first balloon festival with absolutely no plan and mediocre results.
Here’s what I learned the hard way.
Timing Is Everything (And Early Is the Only Option)
Balloon pilots launch early in the morning when wind conditions are calmest.
I’m talking 5:30 AM or earlier.
Yes, it’s brutal.
Yes, it’s worth it.
Why dawn works:
- Soft, directional light that makes colors pop
- Calm winds mean balloons actually fly
- Dramatic sky as backdrop
- Mist and fog create atmosphere
Bump your ISO up to compensate for the lower light.
I typically shoot between ISO 400-1600 at dawn.
Don’t be afraid to push it higher if needed.
Evening Balloon Glows Are Pure Magic
If you’ve never seen a “Balloon Glow” event, imagine dozens of hot air balloons tethered to the ground at dusk, with pilots firing their propane burners in synchronized sequences.
The balloons light up from inside like massive paper lanterns.
It’s genuinely spectacular.
Settings for Balloon Glows:
- ISO 800-3200 (no shame in the high ISO game here)
- Aperture: f/2.8-f/5.6 depending on your lens
- Shutter speed: 1/60 or faster to freeze the flame light
Bring a fast lens if you have one.
The light changes every single second as burners fire and fade.
Lenses and Composition That Actually Work
I always bring multiple lenses to balloon festivals.
My go-to setup:
- Wide-angle lens (16-35mm range) for expansive landscape shots
- Medium telephoto (70-200mm) for isolating individual balloons
- Sometimes a 50mm for detail work
The wide-angle is essential for capturing the scale and scope.
Especially if you’re shooting from inside a balloon basket (more on that in a second).
Composition tips I actually use:
- Include contextual elements—mountains, lakes, cityscapes, people watching
- Shoot both horizontal and vertical orientations (vertical works surprisingly well for balloons)
- Get close-ups of the colorful fabric patterns and textures
- Capture the contrast between massive balloons and tiny humans
Don’t just photograph balloons floating in blank sky.
